Early bird catches the bus

I'm going to make this post brief since its already 12:30 here and I have to be up in four hours to catch the bus to Lagos, Portugal where I'll be spending the weekend with some friends. Today was pretty straight forward, and included a six mile run, classes, and multiple snacks to make up for lost calories. I also had my first guitar class tonight, which was fun, but really easy. I'm looking forward to when we start doing chords, or just anything more than learning the parts of the instrument and how to strum, although I understand why we're starting with the basics- my class is ten people!

After guitar, Yanet had a BBQ at her house, which is just around the corner from Calle Postrera. Her host mom heard there were some vegetarians coming, so she grilled mass-quantities of zucchini for us veggies, which tasted incredible. The patio of the house was also beautiful, though this picture hardly does it any justice. It winds around the side of the house and all the pots overflow with flowers when they're in-season. Yanet's host mom is a master gardener and annually wins prizes for her authentic Andalucian patio. I wish there was someone in this picture to give some perspective to the patio.

I'd guess that if I were standing next to the ladder, I'd be approximately at the 5th step from the bottom of the image, and the flower pots and the wall go at least 25 feet up. It was so nice of her to host us, and such an incredible spot, too. And now I'm home, frantically packing for tomorrow's early departure. I guess I better sleep now. Only four hours until my alarms goes off.

Comida, comida

Today was a day all about taking care of me and my food needs. This morning I spent a bunch of money and a ton of time food shopping at El Corte Inglés for nuts, soy milk, instant pasta, and other filling and nutritious foods that my diet has been lacking. I feel better knowing that if I walk away form a meal hungry I have a supply of alternatives up here in my room.

I also have to be careful about my weight dropping any more than it already has (kilo equivalent of about 5 lbs) At home, I run farther than I do here, but I think that the diet is really taking a toll on my body. This is probably also why I've gotten shin splits while running recently. Hopefully my food hoarding will help put an end to all this, although I do still have to talk to Maricarmen about adding some of my calcium/protein essentials to her meat-filled shopping list.

Aside from that, I had my Political and Music classes today, in addition to Sevillanas later in the afternoon. I feel like I'm finally getting the swing of Sevillanas; I had a great time in class today and felt like my body was finally doing correct-ish dance moves! That was my only exercise today, though. The rest of my time I spent snacking and munching and snacking some more- I need to figure out how to catch up on a month's worth of minimal calorie-consumption.

Maricarmen and Carlos were out at a concert tonight, so I got to sneakily use the kitchen to make some instant pasta in the microwave, which tasted amazing. The package said it was enough for two adults, but I ate it all. I'm looking forward to the next time they leave so I can enjoy another mass-quantity of my version of "normal" food.

Tonight was also Yanet's birthday, so a bunch of went out for drinks to celebrate. Its nice to get together with the group since we don't necessarily see each other that often, unless our classes happen to overlap. Finally, when I got home a few minutes ago, Maricarmen and Carlos introduced me to a Chinese girl who is going to be living with us for a month, but I couldn't understand what she said her name was, and she barely spoke any Spanish. I feel so badly for her! Hopefully she'll feel a bit settled in tomorrow and maybe talk a bit more.

Ok, it's late here. I have to get up and do homework tomorrow morning and hopefully take a run before my 3pm class, so off to bed for me. Ya está jueves manaña!

Con amor, de los EE.UU.

There was one highlight to outshine all the rest today, and that was receiving a package in the mail from my mom. It was a combination birthday/care package, and was absolutely stuffed with an assortment little things that I love. Its hard to believe that she managed to fit this all into one box, but she did, and it was so great I took a photo.

The fabulous package included:
     - A vintage Coach bag for my birthday. My mom has one of these little, cross-body classics, and I've always eyed it. I'm so excited to have my own now. The leather quality is amazing and having a basic little bag like this is so functional. I can't wait to use it when I go out.
     -Notecards (with the ten cent price tag) from Weld Heritage Day's incredible "Trash-or-Treasure"
     -PG Tips, my favorite British tea that I drink every morning at home
     -More tea and Crystal Light, of assorted varieties
     -Ginger Chews, a spicy candy my mom and I both love
     -Two boxes of Annie's Organic Mac-n-Cheese. HURRAY FOR FOOD!
     -Trader Joe's Dried Cranberries
     -Dried Edamame Beans (salty soy beans) from Costco. Protein! Yes!
     -My green t-shirt I accidentally left at home
     -A thumb drive
     -The latest issue of Cosmo (in English!)
     -And photos on loan from the fridge at 50 Union Street, including my kitties, friend Chris, Weld, and perhaps the most essential, a photo of my mom and me from when I was a baby:

I can't even explain how excited I was when I got my package. Packi accepted it from the mailman, and left it on the kitchen table for me, and when I walked into the house after my run and she showed my the package, I couldn't remember how to say "scissors"to ask for a pair to open the box with. Too excited! A huge thank you to the best Mama in the world for sending my a box filled with Maurine favorites/essentials.

So to rewind, I went for a four mile run first thing this morning. I was going to take today off, but I don't have a lot of homework, and I didn't have class until 5:30, so I thought I might as well go out for a bit on my so-called day off. My shins really hurt though, so I think that I've been running too much or not getting the nutrition that I'm used to at home. At home I usually run the same amount, if not more, so it definitely has something to do with the change in environment and diet. Tomorrow I'm going to take a day off from high-impact running and figure out some alternative at the gym instead. Hopefully my bones will hurt less... I love to run!

Classes today, Geografía y Historia de Fotografía, were both good. I'm still exhausted from being in this new environment though, so focusing was somewhat difficult. Today was also the first real Fotografía class, and we covered some of the technical details and history of the various types of cameras, which isn't really my interest. Between that and being hungry and tired (the class is from 7 to 9 on Tuesdays), I was lost. Hopefully next time will be more analytical and less technical, in which case my liberal arts training will kick in. In the long haul, I'm sure I'l do perfectly well in the class.

And finally, home for a quick dinner (small pile of rice and peas) and now upstairs to push through a bit of work and go to bed. Maybe its because I don't have "siesta" time in my schedule and the hours here are pushed so late and I'm craving actual food, but every day here in Spain seems like two. Also, I haven't had any fro-yo yet today, and I'm too tired to go get some. Lucky for me I got a kick-ass care package in the mail today filled with other yummy things to eat. Need sustenance! I have to go buy more peanut butter tomorrow....

El cante se baila y la baila se canta

Today was pretty jam-packed considering its only the second week of classes, although as I think about it I suppose that's a sign that I'm immersing myself in the Spanish culture and assimilating to the lifestyle, which is great.

I went for a run this morning, but only ended up going 4 miles. As far as I can remember I've run the past 6 days, and this morning (ahem, noon) my shins were really hurting me. I actually ended up walking a bit, which is really unlike me. I was hoping to run tomorrow since I don't have class until 5:30, but at this point that's looking unlikely. I'm considering a trip to the gym to take a spinning class or do some other form of non-impact cardio instead.

My first class today, Comparative Political Institutions: Spain v. US, was at 1, although in true Spaniard form, the professor didn't arrive and start class until closer to 1:20. I've never been a self-declared government-buff, but as I'm learning about the specifics of the Spanish political system, I keep having moments where I realize a small detail of how the US is different. Its also interesting to see some of the differences in how the Constitution is written and the flexibility of the law/government since it was written after Franco died in 1978.

There was a brief break to run home for lunch, and I got to chat with Maricarmen about my mom coming to visit for Thanksgiving week in November. She'll be able to stay here in my homestaywith me- I'm so excited! And at this point in time, that isn't so far out. Only 7.5 weeks away! I'm looking forward to seeing her walk through customs in Madrid and jumping on her á la cheesy mall movie. Que bueno!

My second class was Music with Pilar la Loca. She is truly a Spanish version of Julia Child after 10 coffees. I don't understand how she manages to shout over the music with such enthusiasm for an hour and a half, but she does, and every day I lose a little bit of my hearing, panic that I've missed something important she said when the music crescendos, and generally learn "how to appreciate" Spanish music. One thing she did say that stuck with me was el cante se baila y la baila se canta, which means "the song dances and the dance sings." This is so true in Spanish music; music and dance almost never exist autonomously of one another, and I particularly love how even the phrase that describes the music and dance has a melodic flow.

After class I had some time at home to put away laundry (Happy Monday: the day of the week my laundry appears perfectly folded on my bed smelling super clean and organized by article and color) and get a little bit of work done for tomorrow's classes. Then it was off to Sevillanas for round two of dance.

We reviewed, added music, and added more to our routine. Last week I couldn't keep my hands on my hips and now this week we worked on incorporating arm movements, but I can't move mine all smooth and sexy like we're supposed to. Once again I was struggling and flapping my arms trying to "pick the apple from the tree and put it in my basket" while making my wrists roll like a contortionist. Hopefully that'll improve in class on Wednesday. I'll keep trying.

After class, Kim and I got dinner at Cien Montaditos, which although it wasn't spectacular, tasted amazing. Neither Kim for I can afford to eat out a ton, but after the past few days, we needed to give ourselves a break. We told Maricarmen that we had a group dinner tonight to avoid more variations on eggs and potatoes.  I have been craving a massive salad for weeks now, and I finally got it. And of course, I had my daily dose of fro-yo on the way home. How convenient that we had a group dinner tonight! (wink wink). There is also a great view of La Mezquita when walking home from La Plaza de Las Tendillas at night:

That's about it for today! Espero que manaña mi dia se va tan suavemente como hoy (I hope that tomorrow my day goes as smoothly as today).

Domingo- Cerrado

Even in Córdoba, the city of the convivencia of Islam, Judaism, and Christianity, Sunday (domingo) is most certainly the day of rest. Nearly everything is closed, including supermarkets, retail stores, and most other businesses. There are only a few cafés and public services open, and even those are hard to come by.

I went out for a run this morning- a cool 80 degrees- and even the busiest streets were quiet. There were some people in the park, but it was mostly young families walking to a playground with strollers and little kids in tow.  Córdoba isn't big, there is always something going on, and between that and my settling in here and finding my way into a new routine, my days have been high-intensity and relatively busy. It was nice to feel some stillness around me.

I also had some nice connections to home today- thank goodness for technology! I had a long Skype with my mom and got to talk to both my cats, Monster and Birdie. My mom left the computer on for a minute while she went to look for something, so I even had some one-on-one time with my little Bird Brain:

I also had time to sit down and revise what my weekly schedule is going to look like. I enjoy having classes first thing in the morning, and then being motivated to make the rest of my day equally as productive as the first part, but that's not how Spanish classes are scheduled. I suppose coming home for lunch mid-afternoon and having classes well into the evening hours is just another part of my cultural experience.

Around noontime Kim, Yanet, Sarah and I went next door to Caballerizas Reales to see the Andalucia horse show that is going on this weekend. We only stayed for about 15 minutes, but it was pretty impressive to see the size of these show horses and the traditional costume the handlers were wearing.

From there I decided to wander off on my own to the Feria de Mariscos (seafood fair) that I heard about from my host-mom Maricarmen. It was about a half hour walk, but I got a yummy fish sandwich and learned my way around a part of the city that I hadn't seen before. It was also a great procrastination tactic. But alas, homework was still waiting when I got home.

For the past few hours I've been sitting on my bed reading Spanish Constitutional Law... in Spanish. It's relatively straightforward material, but making sure I understand the details is proving to be quite time consuming. I managed to finish Chapter 1, but Chapter 2 is still waiting for me. Kim and I decided to procrastinate by counting the total number of days that we have class this semester: a whopping 37, minus however many we end up skipping to extend weekend travel, etc. Then we decided that if we procrastinate any longer we'll miss the semester entirely, so we should do work. But...

It's dinner time here- 10pm- and then I'll likely go get some frozen yogurt to supplement the meal before (maybe) doing a bit more work. After all, lunes is the day after domingo, and that means I have to be ready for classes.

Toma una fruta

Today I slept until the crack of... noon. I'm not sure how, but it felt great. I wish I could do that every day.

After eating a bit of breakfast, I took a nice long run along the river. About 4 miles in, while running on an esplanade with some pools and fountains in the middle, I came along two spanish boys who looked about ten years old. I couldn't figure out what they were doing, hanging over the side of the footbridge that went across the big rectangular pool, but they were clearly looking at something. I stopped and asked what was happening, and they quickly explained there was a bunny stuck in the pool. The pool, which is surrounded by shrubbery, has marble walls that drop about two feet down to the water. The bunny must have fallen off the wall and into the pool, and was swimming around frantically trying to get out. The boys and I took off our shoes and got in the grimey water, which was only about thigh deep, in an epic rescue. Eventually, we cornered the bunny and were able to get it back to dry land, though it took a while since the bunny could swim under the pedestrian bridge and we couldn't fit. It was really cool to be able to talk to Spanish kids and feel good about my abilities, and of course it was nice to rescue a bunny in the process. Afterwards, I finished my run and promptly took a shower upon arrival home for lunch.

Lunchtime in the kitchen

After lunch, Kim, Yanet, Veronique, Becca and I all got coffee and did some homework at Café Roldan, although as I think about it, it was more of "getting coffee" and less of the "doing homework" part. Luckily the work hasn't been too overbearing so far, so I'll have plenty of time to finish it tomorrow. It was nice to hang out with friends and laugh about our struggles in our homestays, particularly the details of last night's dinner episode.

Tonight, however, adds another chapter to the food saga. At 9:25, as Kim and I were sitting in my room about to go downstairs for dinner at 9:30, Maricarmen walked in and announced (in Spanish) that she's "Not cooking dinner tonight. Have a piece of fruit; don't use the kitchen. I'm taking the dogs out." Kim and I literally had to stifle our laughter. I'm positive that she doesn't know that we used the kitchen last night because she would say something if she did, but the fact that she thinks we can sobrevivir (survive) on a mere piece of fruit it crazy! She knows we both ran six miles today- she asked us both individually about how our workouts went- so why does she think dinner is optional? I don't understand, but at this point its not worth getting flustered over.

We ate an apple after she left the house and promptly walked to get massive bowls of frozen yogurt. Eating at a restaurant is too expensive, and supermarkets are closed by 10 anyway. Luckily it was a nice walk, and ironically enough the walk that we didn't do last night:

Mezquita

While we were out we also picked up a bottle of sangria, which we enjoyed on the side of our rooftop pool while watching the fountain light show from the royal gardens across the fence. Yes Mommy, I know that frozen yogurt and sangria does not substitute for dinner, but it actually turned out to be a decent evening. Its hard to complain about anything while on a rooftop, next to a pool, drinking sangria, watching a fountains and lights show at the royal gardens next door with the Mezquita as a subtle backdrop.

Bag the food, cook the veggies.

The rest of yesterday- Thursday, jueves- went pretty much according to plan. After my run and before my classes started I did some homework. I think that I've completely forgotten what homework is since my classes ended in April; its been five months!

My first class was History of Photography. The professor is a young guy who really wants us to appreciate the art of taking photos, so he's assigning photography projects for outside of class in addition to more traditional, lecture-based material. At the end of the semester we'll end up with a small portfolio in addition to an introductory understanding of the subject. I think it'll be a fun class, particularly since I'm taking tons of pictures here anyways. It also feels a lot like Smith since the class is about 40 girls. Did I really left Northampton? Maybe. I think so anyways, because my next class was my Spanish Geography class. I really like how the professor connects the geography of Spain to the industry and history of the Iberian Peninsula and the Mediterranean Sea. He also gave each of us a big map of Spain, which will be really helpful to have on my wall while doing readings, etc.

Directly following academic classes I had my first guitar class. Like the first Sevillanas class, it was all about getting organized and picking up our guitars that we rented for the semester. I have the guitar here at home now, and might have some time to play around with the little bit I know this weekend, but I'm really looking forward to our first concrete class next week!

After dinner, I went out for drinks with a group of Preshquitas. It was fun to see Córdoba in action, so to speak, but none of the clubs were open like we had planned on. I care more about the dancing than I do the drinking, so I was a little bummed the clubs were closed, but there are plenty of other nights when we can dance. I caught a cab home around 3:30, which is relatively early by Spanish youth standards, and went to bed.

Today is Friday, viernes, and since I don't have classes, I got to sleep in as long as I wanted this morning, which, as it turns out, wasn't morning at all. I woke up around 1pm, which was perfect since it gave me long enough to have a cup of coffee and get dressed before sitting down to lunch. The rest of the day has been pretty low key; I walked to the plaza and hung out with Amber for a while, and then came back here in time for dinner. This is from our wanderings around Córdoba:

However, when I got home, Carmen announced that she and Carlos were going out for dinner tonight, and that she left food on the stove for Kim and me. Thus far, the food in Spain has been bland, and pretty unpleasant. Unfortunately, this has also been true here in my homestay. It isn't for lack of trying on anyone's part, its just a cultural difference that I don't eat potatoes as a veggie with every meal and eggs aren't added to every dish. Carmen left pureed zucchini that had been mixed into scrambled eggs (though it didn't really work out because of the moisture content), and left over ravioli from lunch that was still sitting on the stove.

 Kim and I couldn't handle it, so after they left the house we got a plastic bag and dumped all the food from the pots into the bag and started making a meal from scratch. We made the most delicious pasta and veggies, cleaned up all the evidence, and walked the bagged "dinner" out to the dumpster at the end of the block. Success! I have never been so happy to have a vegetable that isn't a potato and a meal without eggs. I'm sure that years down the road the two of us will look back on this and laugh that we were sneaking around cooking vegetables, but right now it seems like such a serious, momentous occasion.

Now we're just sitting here wishing we had some chocolate frozen yogurt. We could walk to get some, but that would take 15 minutes... and we would have to put shoes on. That's another big thing about tonight: no shoes! The moment our "parents" left the house we took our shoes off. In Spain you have to wear shoes at all times here because the Spanish think that going barefoot means you're poor and not self-respecting. It doesn't seem like a big deal, but its really annoying to have to put shoes on to go down the hall to get a drink of water. These darn cultural difference are making me crazy. I never in a million years thought I'd feel like such a bad-ass for taking off my shoes in the house and sneakily throwing away crappy food, but here I am... barefoot... satiated... but still without my chocolate frozen yogurt.

Arriba/Abajo

Ups and downs- it seems like that is how its going here in Córdoba. One day will be amazing, and the next, though nothing drastic will have really changed, will be a little blah. Yesterday was a down, hence no post last night, but hopefully that means today will be an up- arriba!

Yesterday was my roommate Kim's 20th birthday, so we got up early and went for a run together. It was nice to have company while running, but I really think I like running alone better. Its my own time to think things through and cruise wherever I want to go, so having another person with me makes it a bit less peaceful.

My first class was Comparative Political Institutions: Spain v. US, and I got in! UNfortunately the meeting time, 1:15-2:45, makes going home for lunch and going back to school for the next class a little bit of a fire drill. However, this is the class that I wanted to get into, and I really liked what I saw yesterday, so I'm going to take it.

My second class was Spanish Music Appreciation, which meets from 4:00 to 5:30, and just like the first two times, I really enjoyed the professor. We also got our class CD's to start learning music from. As part of the exams, we have to be able to identify certain songs and be able to contextualize them in an essay. I was glad to be able to upload the tracks on my iPod so I can start memorizing.

After class, Kim and I met up with Yanet and Stephanie and Kim's friend Adam at a café a few minutes away from our house. We had coffee and just hung out and chatted for a while before going to our first real Sevillanas dance class at 8. The class itself was fun, but it also made me realize a few things: one, I'm so uncoordinated and clumsy; two, I have to put my arms out to balance when they're supposed to be on my hips, because; three, I am shaped like a toothpick. It was fun, but it is most certainly going to be a challenge to learn how to move like a real Sevillanas dancer. I just hope we don't have a performance at the end of the semester.

After dinner a bunch of us met up on the Plaza de las Tendillas, the main plaza in Córdoba, so go out to dinner to celebrate Kim's birthday. Both Kim and I were under the impression that we were going to go to a real restaurant, but we ended up going back to Cien Montaditos, the same place we went last Wednesday night. Its great because everything is 1 Euro, but it also means the place is mobbed and it takes forever to get the miniature-sized food. I was hungry, but pretty much the only thing that has no meat was olives. I got my olives, which came with a free beer, and enjoyed a bit of both, but I just felt crappy. I needed real food after running 6 miles and going to a dance class. Also, the street was absolutely packed with you people since all the students are back. Usually situations like these don't really bother me, but there was hardly any standing room outside, and certainly no place to sit. I felt badly, but I left my nearly full olive tray and beer and apologized to Kim and left. I had to go get real food, and just felt put-off by the entire situation. We're going out to clubs tonight (maybe, I'll see how I feel), so its not like I missed out on a ton.

By this point it was also past 11, so while walking home the only places that were open for food, aside from sit-down restaurants and tapas, were ice cream shops. Thus, for dinner I had a big bowl of frozen yogurt and a piece of bread when I walked in the door. I think my bad mood was a combination of being over-tired, still adjusting to the new routine/homesickness, and being absolutely starving. I went right to sleep and just woke up a little while ago, which means I slept over 10 hours. I think the last time I slept so much was in Maine. I feel better now, and I'm having some real breakfast here at the kitchen table before I go out for a run. We'll see what ends up happening later on, but I know that I certainly wouldn't be opposed to another good night's sleep. I'd rather have another arriba (up) day instead of an abajo (down) struggle.

Update: just got back from a run and Packi handed me the front section of the Cordoba newspaper from last week. Preshco made the front page of the living section, as did a picture of me and Bernadette listening to the speeches- how hilarious!

Sorry about the quality of the image- its the only version I could find online. Here is a photo of my copy of the newspaper:

Placas solares

Thank goodness for running. I know for most people it sounds like torture, but it really helps me think through things, clear my mind, and make sure my head is on straight. So this morning when my alarm went off, despite my overwhelming desire to continue sleeping, I got up and ran six miles. The temperature actually dropped into the mid-70's last night, so the conditions were perfect. It was so nice to feel the temporarily cooler air; as much as I like the hot weather and jumping in the pool, I am looking forward to the slightly more tolerable weather patterns of October.

The rest of the morning I spent chasing after el Carnet Joven, the European Youth Card. It involved an application, a visit to the Spanish youth employment and enhancement office, and verification of residency. All-in-all, between the walking to the office and the bank to get a money order, it took about three hours. Supposedly, the card will get me some student discounts on things like busses, trains, hostels, food, etc. across Europe, which could ultimately save me a lot of money! Thus far, the exchange rate has really been killing me. When we arrived is was 1$ to 1.65Euro-- brutal! Since then it has dropped to 1.4E. I can tell I'm already becoming jaded to the poor exchange rate since I'm excited about this. Its so unfortunate how my money from working all summer is worth so little and I want to do so much.

After the Carnet Joven expedition, I had a meeting with Esteban, the Resident Director, about my classes and how I'm adjusting to Spain so far. I told him that my new house is like a palace compared to last week's Residencia experience. As for classes, I'll hopefully be able to get into the Political Institutions class tomorrow, in which case my schedule will be all set. After the meeting I came home, took a nap, ate lunch, and took another nap.

At lunch, we had a big discussion about the high cost of energy here in Spain, and I was pleased to learn that all the hot water in our house comes from solar panels on our roof. It certainly is sunny enough to capture a significant amount of energy; I wonder if Carmen and Carlos have given any consideration to adding more solar panels to offset the rest of their energy consumption. Next time I'm poolside, I'll make a point of peaking over the other side of the roof to check the panels out.

My only class of the day, a class on the Geography of Spain, didn't meet until 5:30, so I had a nice long time to relax and write some postcards. I really liked the class, and it covers much more than the physical landscape of Spain. We're going to delve into the relationships between the culture and the land, and also talk a bit about the economics of the country and how they relate to the climate and prime geographic location between Europe and Africa and between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic. I have a small paper dues Thursday that I thought a little bit about writing this evening, but then I didn't end up doing anything. I'll have to motivate and write that tomorrow at some point. I'm still a bit in denial that classes have started. Its one thing to do readings, but writing papers is a completely different ball game. Tomorrow will certainly be a reality check for me.

Tomorrow is also Kim's birthday, so she and I are going to run together in the morning, and in the  evening, after our Sevillanas dance class, we're going out to dinner with some of the other Preshquitas to celebrate her turning 20.

Día número uno

Nothing worth doing ever comes without complications, right? I sure hope thats the case. I guess I knew that the first day of actual classes would be stressful, but I thought I had my schedule cemented. However, after classes today, I'm re-thinking my semester.

But back to the beginning of the day. Kim and I ran to the gym this morning, did an amazing 45 minute spinning class, and then ran home in time to grab breakfast, shower, and get to class on time. Granted, our first classes of the day were at 1pm, but I still thought is was a productive morning.

My class was on the History of Roman Spain. I really liked the professor during the preliminary session last week, but today the class did a complete 180. Instead of really interacting with the six students in the class, he spent the whole time lecturing. I have no problem with a good lecture, but it seemed like he was talking down to us. I appreciate the fact that he spoke slowly, but the information was really watered down, which is not at all what I am used to at Smith. I want a class that will challenge me, and the material he presented today was not at all what I thought it would be. Alternatively, Kim and a bunch of my other friends are in a class on Comparative Political Institutions: Spain vs. US. It meets at the same time as my current History of Roman Spain, so I'm going to try to switch. Unfortunately, I won't until Wednesday whether I can definitely make the switch. I'll keep my fingers crossed.

After lunch, I had my second class on the Music of Spain. I really like the professor, and the subject is interesting. She is this little old lady who turns on the music and proceeds to shout over it telling trying to explain what to listen for- its a riot. On the way home from class, I took a photo of Calle Postrera, the street where I live:

Post-class, I enjoyed a little bit of quiet time at home to organize my room and put away my laundry, which magically appeared on my bed in perfectly folded piles. The housekeeper even folded my underwear. I had no idea that was possible, but I love it. And that's something I'd think of or spend my own time doing.

Tonight we had our preliminary Sevillanas class. Sevillanas is a style of Flamenco that is particular to the Andalucia region, so it should be pretty fun. We didn't actually dance today; we had some organizational stuff to cover in terms of meeting times, etc. The dance mortification/struggle will begin on Wednesday. And after class a few of us went to a bar and had a beer on the plaza.

When Kim and I got home, we each went to our rooms to wait to be called for dinner. Carmen, our host mom, doesn't like when we hang out in the kitchen while she cooks; she'd prefer us to be somewhere else until she calls us when dinner is ready. Today, however, she didn't call us downstairs, so we waited. She came upstairs to get us around 10:15 (only slightly late for Spanish dinner), and was all flustered that we hadn't come downstairs at 9:30 to eat. But the thing is, we've never had a conversation about when dinner is served. We've only talked about staying out of the way. And in terms of the timing, every meal is a guessing game. I felt badly that we were late, but there was no way of knowing when... Anyways, Kim and I apologized profusely and then ate mostly in silence. This is a big cultural difference I have noticed, though. Spaniards don't directly say things; it is more about assuming and guessing the expectations, which can be really difficult with the big cultural differences. I keep finding myself in situations where I'm not sure if I should ask something, or whether it might be rude or assume... I guess for now it's as much trial and error learning as anything else.

And now here I am... I'm actually having a pretty homesick day. Between the class this morning not being what I had hoped, (hopefully) switching to the political class, and now this late dinner drama, I just feel off. When I say that I'm homesick I feel ungrateful, but I'm not. I'm loving Spain and am so happy to be here, but it is hard, so much harder than I expected, to be away from home. I know its the first week of classes and I'm transitioning, yet again, to a new routine, but the rationalization hardly helps. Home is far away, and I feel the distance. Hopefully it'll be better if I go to sleep soon and take a nice run in the morning.

Fiesta

Well, I didn't turn 21 in the US, but we sure did celebrate like we would have in America last night.

The evening started with everyone meeting up outside SoJo (pronounced soho), a bar/club on the other side of the Mezquita from where Kim and I live. SoJo is actually on the top level of a parking garage, but it has a spectacular view of the river and Cordoba. It also has lots of different bars and lounge areas, both indoor and on the rooftop deck, to congregate and have drinks with friends. Somewhere between 15 and 20 Preshquitas showed up, so we had a great crowd and had fun getting drinks, dancing, and chatting with Spaniards.

A few of the Preshquitas

Skeptical about the Spanish men at the next table over...

At the rooftop bar

Once we left SoJo, we walked across the bridge to see the view of Cordoba and Mezquita all lit up- spectacular! We also ate an entire jar of Nutella on the walk home. So that was turning 21! It was fun to finally party in Spain now that we're all settled into our homes and to have so many friends celebrating with me. Thanks to all my Preshquitas for coming out, and for all the birthday wishes from the other side of the Atlantic!

Today has been a quiet day; I cleaned up my room a little bit, looked at pictures from last night, and have been researching some inexpensive weekend trips around Europe that I'd like to take this semester. Somehow its past 8pm now, so hopefully we'll have some dinner soon before I head back to bed to be prepared for my first full week of classes that starts tomorrow!

Veintiuno, 21

Feliz Cumpleaños a mi! Today has been an all-around great day, birthday or not. Though I do think the birthday has made it even more enjoyable.

The day started with a trip to the Medina Azahara, the ruins of the ancient Muslim capital city, which dates from the beginning of the 10th century. The fortified city is located about ten miles outside of central Cordoba, and was constructed as a symbol of political of Abd Al-Rahman III, one of the the Ummayad Caliphates of Al-Andalus. The Medina was constructed in a series of three terraces to take full advantages of the mountainside on which it is located, and included private, servant, and government quarters. What is left nearly one thousand years later, however, is pretty minimal since much of the natural sandstone has been worn away with time and the hot, desert weather. Some of the arches have been reconstructed and are very similar to the ones in the Mezquita.

The four remaining entrance arches (of the original 14)

After a few hours in the blazing sun, we also went to the Medina Museum, which is down the mountain, and watched a brief film about the history and had examples of a digital reconstruction of the site. It was really cool to see the architectural graphics I've been learning how to use in school practically applied. Yet another architectural geek moment in España.

Interior arches

Small amount of shade

After the Medina, Esteban, the PRESHCO Resident Director, hosted a lunch at his apartment. It was so nice to have a group meal, as well as my first beverage as a legal USA citizen. Esteban also surprised me, as well as all the other September birthdays, with cake and a little celebration.

The cakes were gorgeous, and all handmade here in Cordoba. Hurray for birthdays!

If you look closely, the chocolate says "felicidades!"

I've spent the rest of the afternoon (evening) napping and relaxing at home for tonight. A big group of us are going out to celebrate my 21st at various bars and clubs around the city. Spaniards may not appreciate the significance of 21, but my Americanas sure do! Kim and I are listening to Don Omar- Taboo and getting ready for our first big night out in España. Photos and details to follow tomorrow. 

TGI-Viernes

Thank goodness its Friday! That's not to say that this week has been too long and strenous, but I was really ready for a fun, non-school day. This morning the PRESHCO group met at UCO and we had a walking tour of the city.

Our first stop was at the Great Mosque of Cordoba, also known as La Mezquita and La Catedral. I actually studied the Mezquita in my Islamic Art and Architecture class last Spring, so it was really nice to walk into the actual building with such a deep understanding. The Mosque was built in various stages starting in the 7th century, under the Umayyad Caliphate and Abd al-Rahman II, and construction of additional parts and exterior gardens continued into the 11th century. In the 13th century, however, the central chamber was converted into a cathedral by the Christian Visigoths. Cordoba, as a cross-roads of Europe and Africa, has always been religiously mixture of Muslims, Jews, and Christians, with enough fluxuation to alter the dominate religious group. Therefore, the Mezquita (Catedral) is a unique mix of traditional muslim architecture and an over-the-top Baroque style. The juxtaposition of the two creates quite a visually stimulating and somewhat disorienting atmosphere. Unfortunately I was too much in my own world and tuned out most of what our guide was saying, but I was enjoying myself so much... Here are a few pictures:

One of the mosque sections

The Quibla Wall

The Cathedral alter (but notice the traditional red and white Islamic columns to the left)

The second part of our tour included the old jewish synagogue here in Cordoba, though I didn't get the chance to take any photos. We also toured some of the famous gardens around the city. Since water is so scarce, gardens were not only a huge social gathering place, but also a sign of status and wealth. And since it was over 100 degrees today, it took some serious self control to not jump right in to all the pools and fountains. The most beautiful, however, were most definitely the royal gardens at the old palace:

I knew we were in the vicinity of our house, in the Judiera (the old jewish quarters) but I had no idea how close we were until I recognized the blue roof by the pool and the chair that I napped in yesterday.

As it happens, our house backs up to the royal gardens. Proof:

Of course, I know we have a beautiful house, but somehow I missed that we have what is perhaps THE most prime spot in Cordoba. The garden is spectacular, and from what our guide told us, we should be able to see the nightly fountain, music, and light show from poolside on the roof. Tres chic. 

The rest of the day was pretty low key. Kim and I ate lunch at home and had siesta time. Our parents are out of town for the weekend (they are taking their daughter Celia to London where she will be studying for a year) so our housekeeper Packi is staying with us. Later on, I went to a nearby gym and signed up for a three month pass; its just too hot to run outside here. The pass also includes unlimited group classes, so I went to a spinning class with a bunch of other PRESHCO girls before coming home for a late dinner. 

Packi greeted me at the door when I arrived (sweaty and gross) saying that I had received a gift, and showed me to my room where I discovered the most beautiful bouquet of flowers that my Mom sent me for my birthday! (Thanks Mommy, I love you!) I didn't expect anything at all, so it was a great surprise to get tons of flowers!

And even though it is Friday night, Kim and I are having a quiet night at home (admiring flowers), with the exception of a brief trip to get ice cream. We have to be ready to celebrate my 21st tomorrow night with most of the PRESHCO group! 

Hasta bien pronto :)

Caballerizas Reales

After a short night sleep, this morning started out far earlier than I would have liked, though it was necessary to get to my 9am class. History of Photography sounds like it is going to be really interesting, and will also give me a little bit of formal photography training. Today was another preliminary day, just the PRESHCO students, for us to talk over the syllabus and feel situated before the Spaniards arrive at our first class next Thursday. 

After class, I walked back to the house, put on my swimsuit, and spent some time at the rooftop pool alternating between sleeping in the sun and cooling off in the pool. The sun here is strong, so even with frequently jumping in the pool I didn't last long before I moved my nap inside. I slept most of the afternoon, with the exception of a small lunch break, until it was time to get ready to go to dinner. 

Dinner tonight, which was again more like a cocktail hour with a few finger foods and lots of drinks, was at Las Caballerizas Reales, the former royal stables that were built in 1570 by Philip II. All the PRESHCO students went with thier host families, and we got a formal welcome from the Dean of UCO and lots of the professors. The mayor of Cordoba was supposed to come, but he had to fly somewhere unexpectedly and was unable to make it. As a welcome gift, we each got a book about ancient Islamic manuscripts that's written in Spanish. I know can read Spanish well enough, but reading about Islam in Spanish might prove a bit difficult....

But more importantly, the architecture of the stables was amazing. The side we were on has been opened up to accommodate large groups while still keeping the architectural integrity and masonry of the original stone. I was skeptical when I heard where we were going (which is also conveniently one block from my house) but it turned out the be pretty nice!

Stables lining the hall

Welcoming Committee 

I love the lights!

Once the cocktail house ended, however, I was still hungry. Most of the foods had meat, so I couldn't eat them. As it turns out, this vegetarian thing is much harder in Spain! So when Kim and I left the party, we went to a little restaurant around the corner that serves a plate a cooked asparagus with olive oil for only four Euro. It was so worth it to have some yummy veggies and balance out the bread-y hors d'ouvres. I can easily see myself going there every day just to have some asparagus and blowing my entire semester's budget.  

Even after sleeping most of today, I'm still tired. It's 11pm here, and I'm going to bed. This is the earliest I've been ready for bed since at least a few weeks before I left Massachusetts for Spain. Also, while I've been here I don't think I've gotten more than seven hours of sleep on any given night.  Hopefully in approximately 60 seconds I'll be asleep; I think I will be. My brain is ceasing to function and tomorrow, like every day here, is going to be busy. 

Perezosa

Today was a pretty quiet day, despite it being the first day of classes. My first class, which wasn't until 1pm, was on the History of Roman Spain. The professor was really enthusiastic and wants to make sure that we really understand the information and aren't hung up on learning specific dates, etc. There are also only five of students so it's really interactive. I'll have to make sure I'm prepared for class and read the textbook really carefully; he wrote it!

Between classes I came home for lunch, as is customary here. My body doesn't like this Spanish eating pattern. I'm always hungry at noon, and end up snacking until three when we finally sit to eat. Also the main dish is usually meat, so I've been eating a lot of peanut butter and crackers from my secret nightstand food drawer...

My second class was Spanish Music Appreciation. The woman was hilarious, and so passionate about her job. I want to know where she gets her energy to jump around in front of a class like that; she's probably at least 70, if not older. She cranked some Spanish opera and was shouting over it in the fastest Spanish I've ever heard. It was so entertaining that I think that even if I was not musically inclined and I saw her, I'd sign up immediately.

The rest of the "afternoon" (between six and ten when we ate dinner) I spent relaxing in my room and enjoying sitting still. I thought about going to the pool, but it's so hot and the sun here is so intense it hardy seemed like it would cool me down.

And post dinner, a bunch of girls from our program went out to Cien Montaditos, a popular spot near by. A "montadito" is a little sandwich or tapa of some sort, and they have 100 varieties of little snacks like this. And, as if the prices weren't good enough, Wednesday is 1€ night for everything, drinks included. We went and each had a drink, and hung out at some tables outside in the street- so Spanish!


It's amazing not only how many people are out on a Wednesday night but also how hot it still is at 1am!

And I have class in seven hours. And then a date by the pool with my book. Luego.

Location:Calle Postrera,Cordova,Spain

Cultura y clase

I was going to try to write an update last night, but when I finally got home around 1am, all I wanted to do was sleep. So nevermind about that, maybe that means that I'll write two posts today. But first, back to yesterday:

I woke up in the hotel with Katherine and went to preview another class at UCO on the History of Photography in Spain. I really liked the professor, he is young and enthusiastic about making this class as much of an interactive experience as possible. Part of the syllabus is for us to go out and photograph Córdoba and have prints made that we think tell a narrative of the city.

When class finished, I promptly left UCO in a taxi with Encarni and Maribel, two of the PRESHCO staff members, and we retrieved my bags from the Residencia and moved me across town to my new house! My new house is in the historical part of the city, inside the fortification walls that surround the old quarters, and is about a block and a half away form the famous Mezquita (The Great Mosque of Córdoba) and five minutes from school. The house itself is huge. My new family is a husband and wife, Carlos and Maricarmen. Carlos is a Urologist. His office is attached to the side of the first floor. Maricarmen is a homemaker, and we also have a maid named Packi. There are three dogs, two cats, and two turtles that live in the courtyard. All four floors have marble floors and beautiful tiling, and in the basement there are ancient Roman ruins- very cool. The interior of the house has a courtyard and each bedroom has a balcony. I have my own bedroom and bathroom, too. From what Encarni and Maribel told me, this is likely the nicest house in all of Córdoba. I'm not sure how I lucked out like this, but I did and it is incredible. We even have a pool on our roof, which in this 100+ F heat is too good to be true. And from the side of the pool there is a perfect view of the Mezquita. Again, how I got here I don't know. Also while I was unpacking yesterday, Packi came into my room and took all my dirty laundry. I left the house for food for about an hour and when I came back they were all sitting on my bed, super clean and perfectly folded. I've never had anything life this.

My street

Entrance

My room

Rooftop deck

Rooftop pool

So after I unpacked (and apparently while my laundry was being done) I met up with Katherine for a late breakfast. She toured the Mezquita while I was in class, and then was headed out of Córdoba back to Granada for a day or two before traveling to Madrid for her flight home. It was so nice to see her TWO times; I feel so lucky she was here in Spain and made a point of overlapping with me, particularly during the Reisdencia fiasco.

Kim and I had a mid-afternoon lunch with our new family. Maricarmen can't say my name, so she announced that she'll mostly just call me "La Rubia-" Blondie. (This is also hilarious because one of the cat's names is Rubio, so I always get confused whether she is talking to me or the cat.)There are also two kids, a son and a daughter, but the son lives in Belgium and the daughter, who is a student at UCO, is leaving for her year abroad in London on Friday. It was really cool to be sitting around a Spanish table with a family, and I secretly enjoy knowing that Kim and I will be the surrogate kids this semester. And of course, lunch was followed by a siesta.

Unfortunately, I spent my entire siesta planning classes, which start today. Every single class I'm taking relates to Spanish history and culture. Here's an example of my weekly schedule:

After siesta, Kim and Yanet and I went out shopping for school supplies. We also went to El Corte Ingles, a big department store and supermarket, and I got some peanut butter. Apparently El Corte Ingles is the only place in Spain that sells peanut butter, and as a staple in my diet, I had to get some. (Read: If you send me a care package, include peanut butter. I like chunky. Gracías.)

And finally, around 7pm, the PRESHCO group gathered at a restaurant for drinks and hors d'oeuvres with our new professor from UCO. They each talked a bit about their classes and we had a chance to mingle and get to know them. I really liked my Spanish Music professor; she seems like she's going to be a hoot.

After cocktail hour, when I really wish we had dinner, we went to a Flamenco performance. It was absolutely incredible, and continued on until about 12:30. This semester we have the opportunity to take Sevillana (traditional Flamenco) dance classes, and after last night I am definitely signing up. I'm also going to take guitar lessons. Needless to say, when I got home I was exhausted and just went to bed.

This morning, after a mere six hours of sleep, I got up and went for a run. I haven't run in a about a week, and my body was really feeling it. I have more energy and am so much happier when I'm getting exercise. It was hard to get up early, but even at 7:30 it was already 85 degrees, so for the next month or so until the temperature drops a bit, I'll be doing morning runs. This actually works out beautifully with my class schedule. My earliest class isn't until 1:00pm, so I have plenty of time to shower and do a bit of work, etc.

And today, classes begin! I still feel like I'm in transition mode after just moving in yesterday, but I know that once I get into a routine that I'll feel more settled. I'm also hoping to plan out some trips this evening to see Annabelle in London, and Johanna in Sevilla.

So yes! I'm here, and I'm doing one million times better than 48 hours ago. And now I've got to get my notebooks ready for class. Hasta pronto!

Córdoba, 2.0

The good news is that today has been a much better day. The bad news, however, is that I'm not settled yet.

After tossing and turning last night, I got up this morning and walked to the Universidad de Córdoba, Facultad de Filosofia y Letras (UCO, for short) where I'll be studying this semester. University classes start next Monday, but students from my program, PRESHCO (Programa de Estudios Hispanicos en Córdoba) have the opportunity to preview mini sessions of the classes with the professors this week. Today I went to a class on the Hermeneutics of Art. It sounds pretty interesting, actually quite similar to a lot of my Smith art classes, and would nicely compliment the other classes I'm hoping to take, Geography and Images of Spain, and Spanish and Music Appreciation and History. Tomorrow morning I'm going to preview a class on the History of Photography. We'll see how the cards fall and what classes and times end up working out.

Back to today, though. After previewing classes, I sat down with Esteban and talked (read: cried) about the housing situation. The Residencia, where I was living, isn't really a dorm. It is actually a business, more a long the lines of a boarding house, that is rented on a nightly or weekly basis. Consequently, most of the inhabitants tend to be students, which explains why there was no one will be there until next week. The students, however, are not necessarily students from UCO. They could be high school students who are here studying in the city, university students, or extended visitors. In the Spanish educational system, most students live at home or rent an apartment with friends. The Residencias are a strange middle ground. When I chose the Residencia, I thought it was going to be more along the lines of an American dorm. So when Esteban clarified this information for me this morning, and I thought about the chances of having a roommate who may not also be a UCO peer, I decided to move in with a family.

This is the good news: the family that I'm going to be living with is also hosting another PRESHCO girl, my friend Kimberly, a student at Wellesley and fellow running buddy, and have a home about five minutes from school. Not only is it closer, but apparently it is a really nice house with a pool, my own room and bathroom, and a balcony. Its also located within the old quarters of the city, by the Mezquita (the Great Mosque of Cordoba). So tomorrow morning, after I preview my classes, I'm going back to the Residencia to pick up my things and move into my new HOME. Luckily this change of address was fairly easy and didn't cause too much stress on the part of the PRESHCO directors. And on a lighter note, I did learn a lot about Spanish educational housing.

And perhaps the best news is that my friend Katherine, as part of her two week España adventure, is now in Cordoba. She took a detour here to see me, and so I'm staying in her hotel with her tonight so I don't have to be alone at the Residencia. Though her detour south to Córdoba was planned, the timing in the midst of the housing nightmare was sheer coincidence. And thank goodness she is here. It was so nice to learn my way around the city a bit more with her by my side. She also got to be my little shadow on a tour of the "guay"(cool) places we should know about in the city this afternoon that one of the local UCO students gave us. Afterwards, Katherine and I had tapas for dinner at a café on the street. Every drink comes with a tapa "a grátis"-- free!-- and additional tapas are only 1 Euro. And of course, a final course of ice cream.

Its early-to-bed tonight here in the hotel; I have a 9am class tomorrow, followed by meeting my new family, visiting with Katherine a bit more, and really settling in. I'm so relieved that things are looking up. I actually got excited about being here during our tour today. It is such a relief to know that I have a good family to move in with and another Presquita in the house. What a difference 24 hours makes! And now to make up for that lost sleep...

This is difficult

Up until now I've really tried to keep my blog posts upbeat and emphasizing the highlights. This hasn't been too hard considering we've been all over Spain and all speaking the same language. But now here I am, in a dorm room, in a residencia (dorm) all alone. The Spanish students don't arrive for another week, whereas our intro classes start tomorrow. So while everyone got picked up at the train station by a family, I got picked up my the residence supervisor here, Juani, and handed the keys to my room. She cooked lunch and dinner, but that's about it. I really am on my own.

I haven't felt so lonely in a long time. I've had my fair share of homesickness this trip, but this experience right now is topping it all. New city, empty room, empty building, no English. Its hot and my cheeks are tearstained and sticky.

 I tried to pass the time between lunch and dinner by walking to the university so that I'll know my way tomorrow morning. The city is beautiful, particularly the old neighboorhood by the university. I was also going to pick up some essentials like coat hangers so I could attempt to unpack and settle in, but since it is Sunday, EVERYTHING is closed, with the exception of 24 mini-marts that only sell junk food. This also means that I have no tissues to dry my tears. Later on I ate some dinner, put away what I could, and here I am again. So lonely. I would give a kidney to be in Northampton, in my own bed, in my own house right now. I get choked up even typing this. I want home.

I called Esteban, the program director, and I'm hopefully going to be temporarily moved into a homestay with a family and another girl from the program tomorrow. I can't do this alone in the dorm thing. Alone with a family or with other college kids would be different. But this... ya no puedo. I can't even speak Spanish when answering a yes or no question, I can only remember "ok." No "si."

And really, more than anything, I want a huge, huge hug. No one has wrapped their arms around me with true love, the way my friends and mom at home do. Even one hug would give me just a little bit thicker skin. I'm not even a complainer. This is just so hard. Maybe too hard. And there is really no quick solution. I just have to wait for the morning to see people I know at the university. And they're not even the people closest to me. And I'm so overwhelmed I can't speak Spanish. I want home. Now.

Al Sur

After a long day of touring on Friday, a group of us decided to go out and experience the Barcelona nightlife. We went out to a bar around 11, relatively early by Spanish standards, that was pretty close to our hotel, although it seemed a or farther after getting lost for 45 minutes on the way. The entrance was through a stone archway and tunnel that went back into a series of rooms with big wooden, round tables and benches. Each table had a big vat of beer, and the whole place was loud and hot. Honestly, it looked like it fell straight out of the Harry Potter series. It was so packed, however, that we couldn't get a table. I didn't feel like chasing around the city looking for another hotspot to hang at before the clubs opened at 2am, so I elected to just head for the hotel with a few of the other girls. I'm sure it would have been a great time had I stayed out and done the whole clubbing scene, but a.) I don't know Barcelona, b.) it has a reputation as an dangerous city, especially at night, and c.) I have the entire semester in Cordoba to go out. The city itself is beautiful, but I got really tired of being on high-alert every second of the day.

Yesterday, Saturday, Kim and I got up early, went to Starbucks and got American style coffees, and took a walk back over to Mont Juic, our final stop on Fridays tour. Not only was Mont Juic home to the 1992 Olympics, it was also the site of the 1926 World Fair where Mies van der Rohe, a German architect, designed the Barcelona Pavilion. This past spring I did a big project for my architecture studio on the Pavilion and a digital 3D reconstruction and redesign, so seeing the actual architecture was very cool. It was so good, in fact, that I liked it more than Gaudi's Parque Guell, though I think maybe this is because I have spent more time studying the details and architectural significance.









After taking a bunch of pictures, Kim and I walked back to the hotel and hit the rooftop pool for a while before grabbing lunch at a falafel place nearby. While I was sitting on the roof I kept having the same out-of-body experience thinking about where I was. I never in a million years thought I'd be chilling poolside on a rooftop in Barcelona in my whole entire life.




And as if a rooftop wasn't good enough, I hoped in a cab and went down to Barcelonetta, a beach almost in the middle of the city, and met up with another group of girls. It was so nice! I had my first swim in the Mediterranean Sea, and went topless, like the locals, for a little bit. There were also a ton of vendors on the beach selling drinks, massages, and clothing. I'm just glad I went and hung out for a while on the beach and in the warm water. I can't wait to go to another playa by Cordoba!







Finally, around seven, we meandered back to the hotel, showered the salty sea water off, and went to dinner. Sarah, another Smithie, stumbled upon a vegan restaurant earlier in our visit, so we tried it out and it was awesome. I'm not sure the food was that spectacular, but veggies tasted so good after eating mostly traditional Spanish food (i.e. rice, bread, potatoes... all carbs).

After dinner we hoped on a bus back over to Mont Juic to see La Fonta Magica, the magic fountain that is also part of the 1926 World Fair complex. Every night there is a light show with the fountains projections choreographed to dramatic music- everything from Mariah Carey to opera. I think it would have looked more appropriate at Disney, but I suppose in 1926 it was state-of-the art.




When we got home a bunch of us sat down and had a meeting trying to figure out where and when we want to travel. Then bed. Finally.

This morning we had an early rise to catch El Ave, the high speed train, south to Cordoba. If we drove if would be about 12 hours, but here on the train it will only take us four. The info screen says we are traveling at 271 km/hour, which is over 165 mph! It's smooth, quiet, and really fun, not to mention great sleeping in about five minutes. My current song, and therefore soundtrack, is Dido, Everything to Lose.

Once we arrive in Cordoba, our other luggage will be waiting at the station. Everyone else in the program is staying with a host family, who will meet them at the station, but I am living in a dorm. From what I understand, the supervisor of the dorm will meet me and take me to my new home with 39 Spanish peers. Hopefully I don't forget all my Spanish on the spot. Nos vemos.

And tomorrow, classes. Wow.

Location:Between Barcelona and Cordoba on El Ave

Me encanta Gaudi

We made it! After eight long hours, we finally made it to Barcelona. Once we got here last night, I dumped the entire contents of my bag on the bed in the hotel room and re-folded and re-packed everything. I've been traveling so much that I got disorganized. On top of that, we had to have our suitcases packed and on the bus this morning so they can be sent to Cordoba. We're taking the train tomorrow, and apparently there is very limited room. Thus, until Sunday I'm living out of a backpack. But let's rewind.

After the re-pack, I met up with one of my best friends, Katherine, for dinner. She is here in Spain for a post-grad school trip before she starts work in the US at the beginning of next month. I love her, I love her!

We went to dinner with her boyfriend, Andrew, Andrew's friend Ashton, who recently moved to Barcelona, and Katherine's friend Lindsay. Lindsay is teaching English in Granada, which is pretty close to Cordoba, so she'll adopt me and we can hang out and eat American food together after Katherine leaves. After dinner we went back to Ashton's apartment and hung out on his rooftop deck. Not only was is amazing to sitting on a rooftop in the middle of Barcelona, but it was so nice to NOT be in a hotel. I can't wait to settle in Cordoba.

This morning our group had a tour of Barcelona. It was mostly on the bus (so hot here- 105+) , but we did make some stops to walk around and take photos. Barcelona was Gaudi's home, so there is a ton of amazing architecture here. In fact, most of our tour was architecture. I was hanging on every word. This is Gaudi's house, a few blocks away from our hotel, which was turned into a cultural center and museum after his death.

The street is in a neighborhood "de la clase alta"- upper class. The Art Nouveau style was really popular here during the early 20th century. Thus, all the houses have lots of balconies with iron railings that are sculpted in long, sinuous forms. The upper classes could sit out on the balconies, staying cool in the sea breeze, and watch the people in the street. I already knew a bunch about this eclectic, modern style from my class last Spring called Modern Architecture and Design from 1789-1945, but Barcelona is the first city that has really embodied most of the big concepts. Much of this architectural influence came from Gaudi, who designed houses around the city.

We also visited the Parque Guell (pronounced gu-ay), Gaudi's biggest work. His main mission was to integrate architecture with the natural environment and compliment what naturally exists. It was really interesting to see how he made columns look like the base of palm trees and used mosaics to compliment the floral gardens. I bought a book in the gift shop on the way out because I loved it so much, and of course to add to my collection of art books from exhibits and places that I've visited and loved. I don't think pictures to Parque Guell justice, but here are a few:

Gift shop!

After Parque Guell, we drove past Sagrada Familia, a church Gaudi designed, that is still being built after nearly one hundred years. We didn't go in (the line to get in is over three hours long), but we got to take a look at the outside. It is very cool (maybe my favorite Catholic church yet), and almost has a cartoon-ish look to it. 

Our final stop was Mont Juic, the sight of the 1992 Olympics, to take pictures overlocking the city, port and Mediterranean Sea. The entire city is literally an open-air museum. I love it. 

And finally, around 3 pm, we had lunch (pasta!) and a group meeting at a restaurant on the Plaza de Catalunya. We got information about where we are going to be living in Cordoba, how to walk to school, and our schedule for the first week, which was all very exciting, but exhausting. On the way home I stopped at an open air market on the Rambla, the central city walkway with street performers, etc,  and got some fresh-made juice. Yum.

So now I've just woken up from a three hour siesta and I'm getting ready to go out to a discoteca with some friends and have our first night out in Barcelona. There are four of us in my room right now- listening to SheWolf. Without a doubt this has to be the song of today. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=booKP974B0k) And tonight. Fiesta!